Sunday, July 3, 2016

Saturday, July 2: A James Herriot Day

David and I are big fans of "All Creatures Great and Small" -- the books as well as the TV series.  Just in case you've never heard of them, they are autobiographical stories by James Herriot, who was a country vet in Yorkshire, and they're beautiful.  He writes with great love of the Yorkshire Dales and I've always wanted to see them.  Even if David and I had been willing to try driving on the "wrong" side of the road way out in the country we wouldn't have known quite where to go to find the kind of places Herriot wrote about.  I went online beforehand thinking I might find a bus tour, but instead I found someone offering private tours in Yorkshire and one of his options was a James Herriot tour.  He had wonderful reviews online so we took a chance and booked a tour and were very, very glad we did.  Alan, our guide, spent the whole day driving us around the Dales and showed us wonderful places and told us great stories.  It was another really wonderful day that we will remember for the rest of our lives.

Our first stop was the James Herriot museum in the village of Thirsk.  (If you have read the books or seen the TV show, Thirsk is the real name for "Darrowby", the village where Harriot lived and practiced.)  Here are David and me outside the museum:
The name "James Herriot" was also a pseudonym; his real name was James Alfred Wight ("Alf" to his friends).  The museum is in the house where he practiced and where he also lived for some of his life.  I was very moved to see his nameplate:
The first book ends on his wedding day, when his boss (the vet who owned the practice) gave him some trivial reason to ask him to stop by the house before leaving on his honeymoon. He got there to discover a new nameplate, revealing his wedding present -- he'd been made a partner in the practice.

Here's a picture of Alf Wight, the real James Herriot from the museum:

and the recreated dining room of "Skeldale House":
and the dispensary:

Thirsk itself is a nice enough little town, but wasn't deemed picturesque enough for the TV series.  We learned that all the exterior shots of "Darrowby" were staged elsewhere, in places we saw later in the day.  But here is Thirsk, the real thing:
Like many of my pictures, this one looks fairly gloomy because it was an overcast day and rained off and on.  We had good luck because it seemed like the rain let up every time we wanted to get out and explore.  I brought along a raincoat but never actually had to put it on :-)

It seemed appropriate to be greeted by a playful cat as we walked down the street after leaving the museum:


And in Thirsk I found something near and dear to my heart: the local knitters had been yarn bombing!
 

Soon after leaving Thirsk, we stopped by for a look at Middleham Castle, the "childhood and favorite home of Richard III".  There wasn't much to see there besides the outer walls.  The castle had been damaged by fighting during Richard III and then (like a whole lot of castles, apparently) torn up a lot more during the Reformation.  Still, pretty cool!

And shortly after that, we passed a pretty spot which was used as a location in a popular movie set in the time of a different King Richard:
Anybody recognise it?

After Alan realised I loved castles, he added a stop at Bolton Castle, where Mary Queen of Scots was once held prisoner:
Another ruin because of Reformation violence, but still really neat to see.

Our next treat was a drive through the high dales.  We went across some ridiculously narrow roads -- the kind where you pray nobody's going to show up and want to pass you! -- through an amazing landscape.  All that grows there is rough grass sort of stuff.  It's bleak but has its own sort of beauty.  Farmers let their sheep loose there, since they like that sort of grass.  They leave them out there all summer and collect them for the cold winter weather -- fattened up without any of the farmers' money spent on sheep food.  Apparently sheep have a strong homing instinct so it's not as hard as we might think to sort out whose sheep is whose.  Many of them also have spots of paint on their backs, which identify their owners.




A notable landmark on the way was the Tan Hill Inn, "Britain's Highest Public House" at 1,732 feet above sea level.  Not very high by Canadian standards, but I can tell you it feels pretty high and remote when you're there.

Back down nearer civilization, we ended our tour by visiting several spots where exterior shots of the TV "Darrowby" were made.  These two places were used in the opening credits:
 


It was a truly wonderful day.  I first read the Herriot books when I was a teenager, several decades ago, and now I finally can picture what this beautiful part of England looks and feels like.


Saturday, July 2, 2016

Friday, July 1: Falling in Love With York Again


We had a good sleep last night and woke up refreshed and free of jet lag and ready to explore.  I was just a bit nervous because David has been hearing for the last 5 years about how much I loved York and how much I'd love to go back and see more.  When we started planning this trip I wondered if it would hold up to a second visit and whether he'd love it as much as I did.  Well, he does and I have fallen right back in love with York and am so happy to have this second, more relaxed visit here.

The first time I was in York I was here with my Cantabile choir.  We stayed here for several nights, but most days involved day trips somewhere else to sing and we had a limited time to explore York.  We sang an Evensong service at Yorkminster Cathedral and that was a wonderful experience.

Today we decided to start our exploration of York with a visit to Yorkminster.  We with a guided tour.  We had a wonderful guide; I think he must have been both an actor and a history teacher in former lives if not this one :-)  We learned many, many interesting things about the history of the cathedral and how the incredible stained glass windows and other parts of the building were created.  The tour ended just in time for us to whisk ourselves over to a little side chapel where we joined in a small Communion service.

We aren't done with Yorkminster yet; we plan to go back to see the "undercroft" (areas until the main building where they have artifacts from medieval times and even from some Roman buildings that existed at or near the location of the cathedral).  We also would like to hear an Evensong service -- as part of the congregation instead of the choir this time! -- and we'll go to the big morning service on Sunday.  We learned today that this Sunday's service is special because some deacons are being ordained, which means extra pomp and circumstance and that the Archbishop of York will be officiating.  He actually doesn't spend a whole lot of time in York but circulates around the whole area under his charge, so you don't usually see him when you go to a service at the cathedral.

In the afternoon we took a long walk around the boundaries of the "old city", which means York in medieval times.  This old city was surrounded by a wall to keep out intruders from both north and south.  A few bits of the wall were demolished before people started valuing that kind of historical structure, but about 2/3 of it is left.  It's really fun to walk on it and look out over the city.  Much of the wall was built on top of the ruins of an older Roman wall, from the time when this was a Roman city called Eboracum.  The Roman emperor Constantine visited Eboracum as a young man with his father, who was emperor at the time.  His father died during their time in Eboracum and so Constantine was proclaimed emperor here.  There is a statue commemorating that fact near the cathedral.

We spent most of this great day on our feet and had a lot of fun!  I will end with a few of my favorite photos from today.

Exterior shots of Yorkminster:


 A bit of etymology for the day: a "cathedra" is a special fancy chair that only the bishop sits in.  A "cathedral" is a church that contains a "cathedra" -- in other words, it's the official seat of a bishop.  Here is the cathedra of the Archbishop of Canterbury:

The Catholic church uses this term too.  When the Pope says something "ex cathedra" it means he's saying it with the authority of someone who gets to sit on one of those chairs!

The "quire" area of a traditional cathedral is the area nearest the altar.  In the middle ages it was reserved for clery -- including the ones who did the singing (leading to the modern word "choir").  The following picture shows the quire area of Yorkminster, with the organ pipes in the back.  They are beautiful too look at.  We didn't hear them today, but I know from last time that they sound just as great as they look.  We'll hear them on Sunday.

 One of the "gates" of the city wall:

One of the charming old narrow pedestrian streets in York, with another gate showing at the end:

One of my strong memories of York was the amazing number of old-fashioned chimneys on the rooftops in the older neighborhoods.  My choir friends and I used to hum "Chim-Chim-Cheree" as we walked down the streets.

And finally, a happy husband enjoying his walk on the wall:

Well, maybe one more thing.  Confession is supposed to be healthy.  We happened to walk past a yarn stop I visited last time I was in York.  I have lots of yarn just waiting to be knitted up into things.  (In knitting slang, I have a BIG stash!)  I pointed it out to David and said "I don't need to go in".  Well, I could always look int the window.  Well, maybe I'd just pop in for a minute, but I wouldn't buy anything.

What can I say? I'm weak.  It's locally spun and it's part Bluefaced Leicester (a really nice kind of British wool that's very hard to find in North America).  It called to me and said it wanted to be a shawl.  The very nice lady in the shop said "Isn't it pretty?  I've got just the pattern".  What could I do?  Some women buy jewelry; this is my kind of souvenir.  I will have fun knitting it up and every time I wear it I'll think about this trip.

Thursday, June 30, 2016

Thursday, June 30: We made it across the Atlantic!!!

We're tired, but we're here and we're very happy about it.  We've done the hard part: a train from Kingston to Montreal, an overnight flight from Montreal to London (complete with angry crying baby), a train from London to York, and finding & settling in to our rented apartment.

Now the fun starts.  The apartment is beautiful and comfortable..  Being in York again feels like visiting an old friend and David liked his first looks at York from the taxi very much.  We have unpacked and all we need to do tonight is stop by a nearby grocery store for breakfast/snack supplies and get some dinner.  Then we'll have a good LONG night's sleep and be ready to start exploring for real tomorrow.

It was mostly a utilitarian day, so not many pictures.  We did see a lot of pretty scenery from the train, but it's not easy to get that into the camera.  Instead, here are three preliminary pictures from our arrival in York:

  David in the York train station.  It was built in the 1800s and is big and ornate and fun.

 More pretty details high up inside the York station. 

 A little hotel right next to the York station.  It includes this cute little place called the "Royal York Hotel".  There's nothing wrong with that, but David and I were very amused because of the contrast with the enormous Royal York Hotel in Toronto (which was originally called York).

Now I'm going to dive into bed and try to sleep off my jet lag.  We will have the whole day tomorrow for exploring York and I don't to waste any of it!

Thursday, June 23, 2016

I'm Back!

Somehow last summer finished up without my posting about the rest of the big trip.  It didn't help that we had no Internet during the French part.  It was all wonderful, but will have to remain undocumented here.  If asked I'm willing to show off my photos from the rest of the trip in person and talk way too much about all the things we saw and the fun we had!

This year, however, there is a new trip coming up fast.  It's even longer than last year's trip and this time David is joining me for the first part.  Here is the agenda:
  • June 29/30: Train from Kingston to Montreal, plane from Montreal to London and train from London to York
  • July 1-4: exploring York & nearby area
  • July 5: train from York to Edinburgh
  • July 6-13: exploring Edinburgh & nearby area
  • July 14: train from Edinburgh to London
  • July 15: sightseeing in London (geeky primary goal: see Babbage's Difference Engine in the London Science Museum)
  • July 16: David flies back to Kingston via Montreal and I take a train through the Chunnel to Paris to meet up with the rest of my choir
  • July 17-21: Performing and sightseeing with my Cantabile friends 
  • July 22: Train to Calais and the famous ferry to Dover
  • July 23: Exploring Dover, including the castle and the white cliffs
  • July 24: Train to Canterbury in time for the main Sunday communion service and more exploring in the cathedral and town
  • July 25: Train to London
  • July 26-28: sightseeing in London
  • July 29: plane back home to Kingston
This trip combines two things that are very special to me.  One is time to perform and relax with the Cantabile community, which is always really wonderful.  The second is even more noteworthy: this will be the first trip overseas that David and I have taken together.  We have dreamed about traveling like this ever since we got married, but family and health concerns have limited what we could manage until now. 

We have been promised wi-fi every place we're staying and I'm really determined to post a little bit every day, even if all I have time for is one picture and a couple of sentences.  The Paris part of the trip may be really packed, but the rest should be a little more relaxed and I'm hoping to be able to keep up with the blog.  I really want to share my travels with my friends; I love looking at other people's travel pictures so I ought to return the favor!  And if I can make a blog for the whole trip I'll enjoy looking back at it for years afterwards.

So fingers crossed and hoping to post again on June 30 or July 1 from beautiful York!

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

Friday, June 12: The Barri Gotic

"Barri Gotic" is Catalan for "Gothic Neighborhood", which is the name of the oldest part of Barcelona.  It's fascinating!  We spent most of our time on pedestrian streets, some wide and some quite narrow.  Most of them were bordered by tall buildings with businesses on the first floor and apartments or condos above, and the usual wrought-iron balconies.  Most of the buildings, especially on the narrow streets, were quite old.  The businesses, however, were quite modern.  There were some fascinating and different shops, like one that made very old-fashioned sorts of baby clothes, and lots of more usual clothes and shoe shops and places that sold modern things like computers and cell phones.  It was a lovely day and lots of people were out strolling and shopping.  It was a fun place to be.

Here are two pictures of the sort of streets we walked along, one narrow and older-feeling and one wider.  You can see that many of the balconies had lovely plants on them.
 We also saw a few balconies making very practical use of the outdoor air:

Sometimes the streets opened up into plazas.  Here is a lovely old mosaic fountain in one of them:

 That same square opened up into a display of Roman tombs:  

There were signs explaining that when these tombs were discovered they designed the plaza around them.  We had a wonderful lunch of tapas in a outdoor restaurant in that same square.  Spanish tapas are small savory dishes.  Each would be just a little snack on its own, or you can order a bunch to make up a whole meal. Delicious!

This picture shows a very typical Barcelona building, with stores on the first floor and people living in the floors above.
It was very common to see flags hung from the balconies.  We guessed that they are expressions of Catalan patriotism and the wish for an independence referendum.

Some more pretty things we saw during our wandering:



And a small friend we met who demanded a bit of attention from us, since we're all three committed cat lovers:

Barcelona is full of pretty churches.  We explored three more of them today.  First, La Iglesia de Santa Anna.  Second, Santa Maria de Pi.  Like Santa Maria del Mar yesterday, these churches were too close to other buildings for me to take a good picture of either one from outside and this time the lighting inside wasn't good enough to get any good pictures inside with my little camera.  You'll have to take my word that they were beautiful.  The name of the second church puzzled me.  As a math geek I was wondering if there really is a patron saint of 3.14159.  I asked about the meaning when I bought my ticket to go in and it's actually pronounced Santa Maria de Pee.  I was so glad I didn't have any small children with me to fall over giggling!  It actually means Saint Maria of the Pines.

Finally, we visited the cathedral: La Catedral de la Santa Cruz y Santa Eulalia  (the cathedral of the Holy Cross and Saint Eulalia).  Saint Eulalia is one of the patron saints of Barcelona and was apparently martyred during a period of Christian persecution in 303 AD at the age of 13.

The other churches we saw in Barcelona would be considered large by North American standards, but the cathedral was *huge*.  And it was in a large square, so I could take pictures:

Very impressive, both inside and out.  Here is one of the many side altars:

Our ticket included a ride in a "lift" up to the roof.  I wasn't sure I wanted to do that, but after some sisterly persuasion I made it.  I am not too good with heights.  It was pretty scary at first, but the views were breathtaking.  They had sort of a metal scaffolding over some of the roof, with railings at the edge that were quite a bit behind the actual edge of the roof, which helped a lot.  I was very glad I stretched my comfort zone and went up.  Here are two views over the rooftops of Barcelona.  In the first one, you can see the Mediterranean in the distance:



Looking up at the high steeple and the bell tower:

There were pretty little windows way up there too  I wondered how often anyone besides tourists actually looks out of them.

After we returned to the ground, we walked through the "chapter house", where they had a shaded courtyard with a pretty fountain...
 ...and also of all things, a flock of geese.

At many points in our walk, especially near the churches we saw many whimsical little carvings, which Barbara says are technically called gargoyles:
 



The last one is hard to make out because it was peeking down from a high roof, but it reminded me of Jiminy Cricket!  They were fun, but I also liked them because it meant to me that the individual stone carvers were allowed some freedom to express themselves.  It felt like getting a glimpse of the workers who created all of these incredible buildings.  It's hard to imagine the effort and number of people it took to build things like these without all of our modern technology.  No cranes, power tools, or trucks to carry all of those heavy blocks of stones!

Our original plan was to continue to the museum near the cathedral, which included more Roman artifacts from that area of the city, but our explorations had taken long enough that we were had just half an hour before closing time, so we left the museum for another day.   Exploring always takes more time than you budget for, but part of the fun is giving yourselves time to stop and look at things that might not have been on the original agenda.

We were tired after all of this walking and decided to eat at the Italian restaurant that was right next door to our building.  The food was great (like all the food we had in Barcelona!) and it was fun communicating with the waiter.  He spoke to us in a mixture of Spanish and Italian.  I answered him in Spanish but Barbara and Mike had learned a little Italian for a trip to Italy several years ago and they were able to use that as well.  And since Italian and Spanish share a lot, we got along just fine and didn't need to fall back on English much at all.